1 result for tag: A Life Outside


A Life Outside

In 50 years, do you think you'll still be surfing? When you paddle out, the only thing you're thinking of is that present moment. It's one of the beauties of surfing- your mind is completely pulled into the here-and-now, no matter how distracted you were before. Most surfers don't take the time to imagine the future of their home break; the future of their surf community, or the others that will come after them. Fifty years ago, six boys whose names would one day be well-known, started to surf. They are still surfing even to this day, and now it is their time to look back on a time when they never looked back, and tell their stories through the ...